It was 6:00 p.m., still light out and the Saturday Walking Street, one of Chiang Rai’s most popular night markets, was barely getting started. Hawkers were setting up their stalls and only a few visitors were walking around, slightly confused, as if witnessing a dress rehearsal. Suddenly, ceremonial music blasted from unseen loudspeakers. Everyone froze in their tracks, stood up straight and stopped whatever they were doing at the time. Not a single movement. The…
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